- 1). Measure the the area of the subfloor with a tape measure to determine the number of sheets of backerboard needed to cover the entire floor. Backerboard comes in sheets that are 5-feet long and 3-feet wide. Thoroughly clean the subfloor of any debris, dirt or protruding nails and screws.
- 2). Look for any gaps in the flooring. Attach any wood on the underside of the subflooring to keep any gaps from going all the way through the floor. Use a level to determine the levelness of the floor and to find any dips. Mix together a bag of self-leveler in a five-gallon bucket with a drill and mixing paddle according to the manufacturer's instructions. The consistency of the self-leveler will allow the mixture to be poured directly out of the bucket and gradually level out while setting up. Use the flat side of a 1/4-inch trowel to feather the mixture over any dips initially. Wait 24 hours for the self-leveler to set. Repeat this until the floor is level.
- 3). Measure and mark the backerboard according to the needs of the floor -- mark vents and plumbing for the toilet. Use a grinder with a masonry blade outside of the house to cut the backerboard. Dry set all the backerboard. Leave a 1/4-inch gap between the walls an backerboard, and a 1/8-inch gap between sheets.
- 4). Remove the backerboard and mix together a slurry of thinset and water with the consistency of pancake batter. Spread the thinset with the 1/4-inch notched trowel over the area the first piece of backerboard will cover. Install the backerboard with 1 5/8-inch backerboard screws used for the specific application of backerboard. The screws should sit flush with the surface of the backerboard. Install the rest of the backerboard to cover the entirety of the subfloor.
- 5). Cover the seams where individual pieces of backerboard meet with thinset. Embed mesh tape in the thinset over the seams. Spread a thin layer over thinset over the mesh tape with a margin trowel without leaving humps. Allow the backerboard to set up for 24 hours.
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