How to Graft Japanese Maple Cuttings
- 1). Choose a scion, a branch with two to three or more buds, from a compatible tree that has a diameter similar to that of the rootstock tree.
- 2). Make smooth sloping cuts, between 1 and 2 inches long, on both the scion and the rootstock. On the rootstock, start cutting about 2 inches up from the butt, where the tree's roots begin.
- 3). Strengthen the joint with an extra whip-and-tongue cut on the rootstock. With the slanting cut facing you -- supporting it with your finger -- make a clean downward 1/2-inch cut about one-third of the distance down from the tip.
- 4). Repeat both the smooth sloping cut and the whip-and-tongue cut on the scion, but this time making bottom stem cuts -- to match the top cuts you just made on the rootstock. The more perfectly the two stems align, the greater your odds of a successful graft.
- 5). Push the cut sections of scion and rootstock together, linking the two tongues. Align the cut surfaces closely, so both cambium layers -- just beneath the outer bark -- will grow together. Match these cambial layers on only one side if the stems are mismatched in size.
- 6). Wrap the carefully aligned graft with masking tape and then a rubber budding strip to hold the pieces together tightly and prevent drying. Apply hand wax over the entire graft area for extra protection.
- 7). Remove the masking tape, budding strip and wax about a month after new tree growth begins -- evidence that the graft is successful -- though in many cases graft materials will decompose and fall away on their own.