- 1). Use a sharp knife or thin trowel to remove small sections of lawn sod from several places. Measure decomposing thatch between green stems and soil on each section with a ruler. Use mechanical means to remove thatch if the layer is more than 1/2 inch thick.
- 2). Remove thatch over 1/2 inch deep in spring for best results in the Northwest. New vigorous spring growth will fill thin spots in more quickly. Thatching can be done in early fall but is less desirable.
- 3). Remove excessive thatch (1 inch or more) in stages over a period of at least 2 years. Remove only 1/2 inch in each operation.
- 4). Aerate lawns to remove thatch by using a step-on plug aerator for small areas. Use a tow-behind aerator with riding mowers or rent a power core aerator for large areas. Removing cores cuts through thatch and loosens compaction. Leave cores to decompose.
- 1). Remove light thatch in small lawns with a thatching rake. Pull it across the lawn and pick up the dislodged thatch. Discard or compost the debris.
- 2). Remove light thatch in large lawns with a thatching attachment if your walk-behind mower has that option. Use a tow-behind thatching rake for riding lawnmowers or rent a power rake for larger lawns.
- 3). Cut back on nitrogen fertilizer after thatching to prevent overgrowth that causes buildup. Deep water every four days during the dry season and cut back during wet Northwest winters.
- 1). Mow the lawn lower than usual before starting removal of the top layer of heavy thatch. Mowing can be as low as 3/4 inch.
- 2). Dethatch in one direction using a power rake, then rake again at right angles to the first direction. If heavy thatch is still visible rake once more diagonally. Use a bagging mower to easily pick up thatch.
- 3). Follow thatching with aerating and leave the cores to decompose on the lawn. Do not top dress right away; this can add to compaction and thatch buildup.
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