There are very many sites on the web with tips and hints on how to steam fix pieces of silk that have been painted by hand and there seems to be a lot of confusion as to exactly what is involved.
This article is going to take you through the process of how to steam fix silk dyes properly so that you don't ruin your work.
When you have taken the time to create a beautiful piece of artwork, the last thing you want is to have it spoiled by experimenting with methods of fixing the dyes permanently into the silk.
And let's be honest, there are very many people offering tips and tricks with methods that just aren't reliable enough.
I don't know about you, but I prefer not to play Russian roulette every time I want to fix my work.
I need to know that the fixing is going to be clean, reliable and produce fabulous results, without me having to worry about water droplets or fading.
The first thing you need to pay attention to when steam fixing is that there are no grains of salt stuck to the fabric and that any coloured gutta you have used has been iron fixed from the back.
I also recommend that you take care not to steam silk that is crushed or full of folds as these can get steamed into the fabric and are difficult to get out.
You'll need some paper, ideally unprinted newspaper, to roll out and lay your silk on.
This will absorb any dyes that bleed out of your artwork during the steaming process.
If you are going to use newspaper, be sure that it is at least 6 weeks old, otherwise the print is likely to mark your silk.
It's definitely not my first choice.
There are companies which sell paper ideal for this online, so have a look and see what you can find.
One end of the paper is then attached to a metal pole with masking tape.
Start to lay your pieces of silk onto the paper about 2 hand spans away from the pole, taking care that they are not too near the edge or touching each other.
Keep them all at least a couple of inches away from each other.
Then starting with the pole in your hands, slowly roll the paper and silk together, forming a long sausage.
At the other end, roll up another 2 hand spans of empty paper for protection of the silk.
Secure the roll with masking tape.
In order to make sure that your steam fixing is done properly, this roll needs to be suspended in a steam bath for around 3 hours, depending on how thick it is.
Ideally you would now hang it inside a professional silk steamer which would ensure that your roll does not touch the edges and is kept safe from water droplets.
The device is closed, switched on and the thermostat set.
It will safely and correctly steam your silk dyes and permanently fix them.
If you don't have access to a steaming device, this is where things begin to get tricky.
You will have to roll your artwork up without the pole and make a package that will fit inside a steaming pot that can sit on top of your cooker.
This is obviously a huge improvisation, as any large pieces of work need to be folded up which will potentially create creases and folds.
There is also the danger of any water droplets getting inside the package which will ruin your work.
For this reason I don't endorse home-made methods but the choice is always down to you the individual.
I hear again and again of people running into difficulties steaming silk dyes on the hob.
f you would like any assistance in steaming your silk paintings professionally in a steam fixer, please have a look at my website and blog.
I look forward to hearing from you.
This article is going to take you through the process of how to steam fix silk dyes properly so that you don't ruin your work.
When you have taken the time to create a beautiful piece of artwork, the last thing you want is to have it spoiled by experimenting with methods of fixing the dyes permanently into the silk.
And let's be honest, there are very many people offering tips and tricks with methods that just aren't reliable enough.
I don't know about you, but I prefer not to play Russian roulette every time I want to fix my work.
I need to know that the fixing is going to be clean, reliable and produce fabulous results, without me having to worry about water droplets or fading.
The first thing you need to pay attention to when steam fixing is that there are no grains of salt stuck to the fabric and that any coloured gutta you have used has been iron fixed from the back.
I also recommend that you take care not to steam silk that is crushed or full of folds as these can get steamed into the fabric and are difficult to get out.
You'll need some paper, ideally unprinted newspaper, to roll out and lay your silk on.
This will absorb any dyes that bleed out of your artwork during the steaming process.
If you are going to use newspaper, be sure that it is at least 6 weeks old, otherwise the print is likely to mark your silk.
It's definitely not my first choice.
There are companies which sell paper ideal for this online, so have a look and see what you can find.
One end of the paper is then attached to a metal pole with masking tape.
Start to lay your pieces of silk onto the paper about 2 hand spans away from the pole, taking care that they are not too near the edge or touching each other.
Keep them all at least a couple of inches away from each other.
Then starting with the pole in your hands, slowly roll the paper and silk together, forming a long sausage.
At the other end, roll up another 2 hand spans of empty paper for protection of the silk.
Secure the roll with masking tape.
In order to make sure that your steam fixing is done properly, this roll needs to be suspended in a steam bath for around 3 hours, depending on how thick it is.
Ideally you would now hang it inside a professional silk steamer which would ensure that your roll does not touch the edges and is kept safe from water droplets.
The device is closed, switched on and the thermostat set.
It will safely and correctly steam your silk dyes and permanently fix them.
If you don't have access to a steaming device, this is where things begin to get tricky.
You will have to roll your artwork up without the pole and make a package that will fit inside a steaming pot that can sit on top of your cooker.
This is obviously a huge improvisation, as any large pieces of work need to be folded up which will potentially create creases and folds.
There is also the danger of any water droplets getting inside the package which will ruin your work.
For this reason I don't endorse home-made methods but the choice is always down to you the individual.
I hear again and again of people running into difficulties steaming silk dyes on the hob.
f you would like any assistance in steaming your silk paintings professionally in a steam fixer, please have a look at my website and blog.
I look forward to hearing from you.