- Maple needs to be sanded multiple times to prepare it for stain. Begin the process with a coarse paper, and sand the wood down evenly a number of times, increasing the grain of the sand paper each time. The final sanding should be done with 120 to 180 grit paper, but may be even higher if the wood is extremely porous. Finishing with the high-grit paper will help seal the pours and prevent the wood from taking the stain unevenly.
- Stain controllers are applied prior to staining to help seal the wood. It may also be called a wood conditioner, depending on the manufacturer, and it works by evening out the surface of the wood to decrease fluctuations in the rate the wood absorbs the stain. Consult the stain manufacturer for stain control products that will work well in conjunction with the stain you plan to use. Stain controllers often weaken the stain's color, so you may need to use a darker stain to obtain the desired final color.
- The type of maple you choose can make a difference. The harder the wood, the more likely it is to take the stain unevenly. Look for a softer maple wood with a density less than 35 pounds per cubic foot. Straight grained pieces of wood will often take the stain more evenly that wood with wavy or irregular grain throughout it.
- Water-base wood stains that have thicker consistency than their equivalent oil-base stains can make staining maple easier and help prevent blotching because the penetration rate is more consistent. The lighter the stain color, the less noticeable any blotchiness will be once applied.
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